Thursday, August 21, 2014

Week 2: Tamale and the bus ride of Doom


Week one of work passed in a blur as most first weeks do. There seems to be 5 steps:

1) Excitement
You have a vague understanding of the work you will likely be doing and a vague goal and plan in mind. All these things combine into an optimism that tells you that you can change the world. Your spreadsheets will be the best, your presentations will be flawless, and the organization you work with will shine brighter than ever before.

2) Reading
You now realize how little you know of the organization, topic area, and work you will be doing, which means that you get to spend the bulk of the next couple of days reading everything you can get your hands on. Sometimes you understand it, sometimes you don't, but you consume all of the information you can and begin to try making sense of it.

3) Confusion
The documents you read and the people you speak to all begin to point to one particular problem: the organization you are stepping into is a chaotic mass. There are few processes, information is not stored logically, and the format of documents, reports, etc vary widely based on the individual who created them. You no longer understand what your goal is, or how you fit into your role.

4) Tantrum
This is ridiculous. The organization may or may not know what they are doing, and you certainly don't. The existing bureaucracy makes things at best inefficient and at worst impossible. Screw it, it's time for a drink.

5) Acceptance
Maybe this won't be so bad after all. The people around you seem well-intentioned and are fun to be around. Plus, with all the inefficiency and lack of standardization, you can't help but meet or exceed expectations. It's time to settle in and enjoy the ride.

Both my co-worker (http://amandacoxdesign.wordpress.com) and I have arrived at the Acceptance stage of our first week of work. My tasks with the Mobile Business Clinic will be to: I) assist in revising the course curriculum prior to the Clinic in Korfidua in October, II) work on developing a business model for Mobile Business Clinic to become sustainable, and III) assist in the set up of a seed fund to be added to the Clinic. This fund could be accessed by clinic participants to enable them to pursue investment ideas.

On to Tamale
After the first week, I had a somewhat relaxing Saturday in which I played a few hours of soccer with a co-worker of mine and his friends, and then went to see Guardians of the Galaxy. The sense of humour in Ghana is definitely different and I did not laugh with the rest of the audience. Awkward...


This is the view of the valley on the drive to my place just outside of Accra. You will notice the wonderful layer of smog that blankets it and the lungs of its inhabitants. My thanks to the very large garbage burning pile of garbage for the enhanced sunsets that it provides. For more information on the garbage dump: http://www.local.com.gh/pantang-dump-site-mountain-garbage-sprawling-residential-area-148559.html.

Where I play football on Saturdays. I now regret quitting soccer when I was 8.

This is Fan Ice, it tastes like soft serve ice cream in a bag. It is now my reason for being. I am eating as much as possible to prevent weight loss.

The bus to Tamale
My venture (MBC) is loaning me to another venture, the Young Managers Project, for two weeks to assist in the set up of their monitoring and evaluation effort. As a result, I woke up at 5AM on Sunday to travel 12 hours North to the city of Tamale. When I arrived at the bus station at 6AM, I was informed that the 8AM Imperial Express bus was sold out. In response, I grabbed a cab to the STC (government-owned) bus station to attempt to get on one of their three buses on Sunday. These were also sold out. An employee saw this, and promptly told me to sit down and wait, he would help me shortly.

This is one of the more uncomfortable things that happens regularly. The situation goes like this: the Obruni (foreigner/white person) comes in and is given preferential treatment/is able to by-pass the line/have an exception provided for them. The employees who provide this sometimes expect additional compensation. Sometimes it is difficult to recognize when this is happening, other times, it is blatantly obvious and uncomfortable. In this particular situation it became clear to me pretty quickly and I told the employee I was going to one of the other bus stations to see what I could find. He insisted on accompanying me back to Imperial Express Station to help. When we got back to the station, he spoke to a man, who then walked up to the counter and enabled me to buy a ticket on the bus that I was denied entry to an hour prior. I’m still not entirely sure what happened or why. Was the bus not actually full? Did somebody get bumped? Situations like this seem to be fairly common and I am still figuring out how to handle them.

The drive up to Tamale was beautiful and bumpy. The road has big speed bumps every kilometre or so, which makes sleeping very difficult. In addition, the speakers blare Ghanaian movies for most of the trip. Further exacerbating this issue is the fact that Ghanaian movies have no shortage of screaming, yelling, and fighting in them. After twelve sleepless hours, I arrived in Tamale!

A picture from outside the Afri-lead (YMP) office in Tamale.


Part of my breakfast this morning. To answer your question, yes, that is hot coffee in a plastic bag. A water fight with me right now would be very unwise.

A brother and sister fight over a basket of candy their mother got for them. The brother is clearly picking on the sister. I can relate to the plight of the boy, I remember being forced to share with my little sister. So unfair.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Week 1: The flight was hard, I should probably take vacation

After landing from any flight, we all seem to politely ask, “How was the flight?” As if spending 25 hours in a steel tube beside individuals as unkempt, underfed, sleep-deprived, and under-oxygenated as I am could be a pleasant experience. This particular intercontinental journey did meet expectations and Egypt Air provides actual meals! My apologies to Air Canada, but lunch on your flight consisted of the loneliest roast beef sandwich I have ever met. It did not count as a meal, and if you could introduce him to a vegetable or a condiment, then he and I would both be so much happier. But enough about the flight, let’s get to the good stuff!

I arrived in Accra in the midst of the workweek and as a result, my Western brain assumed that first thing Wednesday morning, I would be trudging into an office in my then VERY wrinkled pants and dress shirt (it’s hard to keep things looking good when they are crammed in the bottom of a 75L pack). However, my boss was away on business in Northern Ghana, which left me with two options: 1) stay in Accra and get settled, or 2) tag along with a few EWB fellows on a trip to Ghana’s second largest city: Kumasi. Naturally, I chose Kumasi, and departed the morning after my arrival for a 5-hour bus journey to a new city. We spent the night at an EWB venture house. The venture was Votomobile, they do mobile polling for governments, NGOs, etc. Very cool organization, very talented people.  I met several new friends pictured below:

The following morning we visited the largest market in West Africa. It was truly impressive and no picture will ever do it justice. So here are two pictures that combined, do not adequately capture the experience.

After shopping, we did what anyone would do: left Kumasi for an amazing freshwater lake in the middle of crater created by a meteor! The hotel that my fellow Professional Fellow (FPF), Amanda, and I stayed at had some of the most vocal goats I have ever met in my life (they are usually chatty, but this was something else). It was upon remarking this to a fellow Junior Fellow (FJF) that I learned of a fellow Previous Fellow (FPrF)’s radio show that included a segment entitled: “Goat or Child.”  Sadly, I cannot find the actual thing, so here’s an approximation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlYlNF30bVg. The point is, goats are everywhere, they sometimes sound human, and they make me giggle.


 Alas, vacation could not last forever and my fellow Jolly Fellows (FJoF) – please ensure you have all of these acronyms down – and I returned to Accra for work on Monday. My first day of work was as a panelist with the Young Fellowship Program (YFP), which was conducting a group interview of candidates applying for fellowship positions. The interview consisted of a group case study on the Maize Industry, a group presentation, and an individual interview/debrief. My role was to be a facilitator for one of the groups and then an interviewer. The candidates were truly impressive and it was a privilege to be apart of this event. YFP will be conducting similar interviews in two more cities. They will then conduct follow-up phone interviews with the candidates and then be left with the difficult task of selecting 16 fellows for this year’s program. The fellowship provides one-month of training and then a five-month work placement in an agribusiness in Ghana. If you wish to find out more about this program, visit: http://www.afrileadinstitute.org/programs/ymp/.  I will have another opportunity to work more with YFP in Tamale for a few weeks starting next Monday.

 Tuesday was my first day at the Mobile Business Clinic (MBC) office in Accra. The office is near one of the businesses junctions in the city (Zongo Junction). I will cover more about the MBC in later posts.


My intention was to take a picture of my dinner prior to eating it, but alas, hunger got the best of me. Displayed below is the remnants of my groundnut soup with chicken (it was very spicy), Banku on the right (fermented cassava and corn dough - it takes some getting used to, but is quite nice), and my bag of water on the left.


Monday, August 4, 2014

In which I disobey signs and attend a beautiful wedding.

The past week and a half has been a blur. I was in Toronto for pre-departure training for Ghana. Much of this centered on difficult conversations on power, privilege, gender, and development. Incredibly powerful topics in any context, and vital for the work EWB does.

For those who don't know, my work assignment has changed dramatically since I was first accepted to the Fellowship program. I will now be working with the Mobile Business Clinic. An endeavor that seeks to build management skills, leadership skills and business acumen in the middle management of agricultural businesses. My specific tasks will likely focus on monitoring and evaluation, but may include a variety of other tasks. I am excited and nervous. I will likely have a lot of self-management to do in order to be effective. Humility, patience, active listening, coaching, and shutting my mouth are just a few of the items on that list.

I should probably also learn to obey all street signs:
(I'm pretty sure the fashion police will investigate me for the myriad of faux-pas' committed by this outfit. My sincerest apologies)

After Toronto, I trained back to Montreal for a couple of days. This was a poorly timed voyage as I was on a train full of those bound for Osheaga. These individuals were wasting no time. The train sold out of alcohol within the first two hours, music was blaring, and someone even brought out a vaporizer. The party-ville destined train got me to Montreal safely and while I didn't join them at Osheaga, I did find myself in a crowd of rowdy Torontonians at a soccer match. Now my Montreal-based family will likely be mortified here, but I may have spent the match singing and dancing with the TFC supporters. 

My last stop in my North American travels was Ottawa, for the wedding of Alex Podiluk and Stephanie Kenny. It was an incredible ceremony that I am so happy I was able to attend. I have no doubt they will make good on their promise to kick ass at life together.

Next stop: Ghana